Monthly Archives: July 2006

Saül and Kenòl

Saül and I have known each other since my activities in Haiti first began in 1997. He’s my //monkonpè//, which is to say that his son is my godchild. So our relation is very much like family. I’ve mentioned him often in my writing, and that reflects his very large presence in my life. In addition to my friendship with him, his wife Jidit, and their children – I rarely enter Pòtoprens without seeing them first or leave it without seeing them last – I’m also close to various other members of his family. His younger brother Job especially, but his other siblings as well.

For the last month, Jidit and the boys have been in the countryside, visiting her family, so Saül has been staying alone in the small, one-room, concrete house where he lives as the custodian of the office of a Christian NGO. While his family is away, I’ve been spending more time there. I’ve even slept there a couple of times. I joke that I’m there to keep an eye on him for Jidit.

Saül’s job as a custodian doesn’t pay much. Though he and his family have free housing, electricity, and water, and though this is no small matter in the Pòtoprens area, the salary is nonetheless low. With two boys in school, things are tight.

But it’s harder than that. He’s the oldest of his parents’ seven children, and the last three are still in school. They depend heavily on him and on Felix, the third of the five brothers, to put them through school and keep them fed, clothed, and housed. This involves a lot of expense. And this past year has been especially difficult, emotionally and financially. His mother’s long illness was very expensive, and her funeral was as well. It’s a little hard to imagine how he could make it on his salary alone.

But Saül is very good with money. He’s known among family and friends for his financial smarts. It’s a running joke. The intelligence he shows handling money is all the more striking because that same intelligence did him no good at all when he was a boy in school. After spending several unsuccessful years in third grade, he convinced his parents to let him drop out and go into business instead. It must have been a hard decision for them. One need only consider how far the other siblings have been able to go in school to understand how dedicated the family has been to education. Four of the seven have made it to university, and two others made it to the last few years of high school. This, in a country in which only 60% of the population is literate and less than half of school age children are enrolled in primary school.

One of Saül’s godchildren is a boy named Serafen, who lives in Ench. The boy’s father, Rosemond, is not only Saül’s //monkonpè//, but they are cousins as well. Saül’s father was raised by Rosemond’s grandparents, having been adopted by them when his own mother died in childbirth. His father had died just a few weeks before that. So Saül feels close to Rosemond, and listens to his advice carefully. Rosemond has done very well for himself selling gasoline, ice, and soft drinks in Ench, and he advised Saül to make a go of selling gasoline as well.

This is not to say that Saül was to open a gas station in the sense that we know them. Even Rosemond, who has a large and flourishing gas trade, is a long way from anything like that. Rosemond has a small shop at the side of the road in downtown Ench. It’s filled with barrels of gas, which he empties into gallon jugs to sell. Rosemond was advising Saül to buy a couple of barrels. He gave Saül a connection to someone who sells gasoline wholesale. Saül decided to buy some gas and get to work.

Here’s Saül’s warehouse:

But it’s not that simple. Saül could not afford to simply give up his job to become a gasoline merchant. The steady, if small, salary it provides is important to him, and the housing is more important still. So he hired a young salesman. He paid him a very small salary to sit by the gasoline all day and sell it to passing drivers.

It didn’t work well. The guy was lax, unreliable, too inclined to sell on credit without keeping close track of who owed what. So Saül had to fire him. Saül was thus left at something of a loss. He had a supply of gas, but no consistent way to sell it. He would not be able to move it quickly enough working the streets only in the hours when his job didn’t require him.

Then one day another young man came by looking for Saül. At the time, the young man was running his own small business at the tap-tap station at which Saül had been trying to sell his gas. When one of the drivers asked him where the gas was, he ran to get Saül, and made the sale for him. That young man was Kenòl.

Kenòl is from Okay, Haiti’s most important city in the south. He had been living in Pòtoprens on his own for sometime, putting himself through high school. He had recently made it all the way to the end of high school, but hadn’t been able to pass the national graduation examination. Few Haitians get as far as taking the exam, and very few pass it. I’m not sure how he scraped together tuition to go to high school, but as much as he would have liked to continue his education by enrolling in a professional school, he just didn’t have the money. Rather than sitting around, feeling sorry for himself, he began selling the phone cards that cellular phone users in Haiti need to make calls. Soon after that, he started renting a phone from someone so he could sell telephone calls, too, operating a kind of payphone. Neither of the businesses brings in much income, but by working the streets seven days a week, from sunrise to dark, he was keeping himself fed.

Saül and Kenòl began to talk about how they could run the gas business together. They didn’t know each other very well, so they weren’t sure what to expect. Rather than Saül just paying Kenòl, they decided to try something different. They would become partners. Saül would buy the gas and pay the expenses to transport it to the tap-tap station where Kenòl has his other businesses. Kenòl would sell it. They would split profits 60/40. Saül would get a hardworking, motivated salesman, and Kenòl would get a piece of a business larger than anything he could afford to establish himself.

Kenòl at the station:

Here you can see his phone business, too:

The business appears to be going quite well. They sell about a barrel of gas each week, plus smaller quantities of diesel and kerosene on the side. I asked Saül why sales were so good. There are, after all, several modern gas stations with pumps and convenience stores nearby. He explained things in two ways. On one hand, though the gas stations are nearby, he sells right at the station, so tap-taps lose no time filling up. They can buy a couple of gallons while they wait for passengers. This much I had guessed. But he said that what is more important is the fact that they sell the gas in gallon jugs. Drivers like the assurance that they are getting a gallon when they pay for a gallon, and Saül’s system allows them to feel sure. They do not trust gas station pumps.

Along with their partnership, a friendship is taking shape as well. They are very different people, from different parts of Haiti, with very different stories to tell. But Saül trusts Kenòl more and more, and likes him for both his seriousness and his wit. He appreciates the casual respect that Kenòl shows him. Kenòl respects Saül’s business acumen and enjoys his easygoing ways. While Jidit and the boys are in the countryside, Kenòl and his girlfriend, Rosena, have been Saül’s main companions. They’ve been eating together two-three times every day. They both celebrated birthdays in July, and made a point of celebrating them both together.

One thing that they have in common is that, though there is no comparison between their respective educations – Saül is only marginally literate, while Kenòl reads both Creole and French with ease – as bright as they both are and as hard as they both work, neither was able to make formal education a road to a better life. This they have in common with far too many Haitians. For the majority, the primary barrier is economic, as it was for Kenòl. But for many, like Saül, it is the quality of the school experience itself: the rote learning, the primacy of French, the violent and overcrowded classrooms, the poor teaching.

It leaves one pleased to know that there’s such a place as the school in Matenwa (See: www.matenwa.org or EducationInMatenwa), and relieved to see that at least some people are finding ways to make their living nonetheless.

Here they are on the evening of Saül’s birthday dinner. That’s Rosena, Kenòl’s girlfriend, on Saül’s left.

Photos of the General Assembly

I posted an essay about Fonkoze’s General Assembly earlier this week (See: TheGeneralAssembly), but I wanted to share a few photos that I took there.

When I arrived, songs already filled the room. Here’s a photos of Fonkoze members singing about Fonkoze. They tend to be very loyal and very fond of the institution.

Fonkoze’s founder is a Catholic priest named Father Joseph Philippe. He played a large role at the gathering: leading songs, offering explanations, encouraging participation.

Throughout the early part of the meeting, there were speeches by Fonkoze staff and by a visiting expert, but Fonkoze’s members always had the chance to ask questions and offer comments.

The most important phase of the meeting, however, was when the staff really opened up the floor, inviting the members who wanted to come forward to raise any issues they felt were important. Women streamed forward to take the microphone.

Like most meetings in Haiti, the General Assembly ended with a prayer.

The Trip to Twoulwi

The trip to Twoulwi was a great way for me to see some more of Lagonav, understand the water issues better, and see a different kind of work in the field.

Benaja is the fourth-grade teacher in Matenwa, but he’s also a member of Lagonav’s association of community organizers, AAPLAG.

As we crossed the island, we saw how dry the treeless landscape becomes. It hasn’t rained since September.

Farmers have to drive their animals to the few wells to let them drink. The wells are scattered, so it can take a lot of time. They might not be able to get their animals to water more than once of twice each week. This well is in Sous Filip.

This is the center of Twoulwi, a small port on the southern coast of the island.

Here are some of the boats that make the trips to the mainland. They go between Twoulwi and cities like Miwogwann and Tigwav.

And here are fishermen at work drawing in a net. They didn’t catch much.

The meeting took place in a wall-less covered space right at the water.

The most interesting part of the meeting for me was when the participants took magic markers in hand and drew a map of the local water sources.

There was a parallel meeting with kids.

Here’s a final photo of Benaja.

The General Assembly

I was half an hour early, but I felt as though I was a least that late.

This in itself was striking. I’ve worked in Haiti with perfectly successful groups, groups that met consistently over months or even years, and have had to adapt myself to the fact that half the participants or more would often arrive for a two-hour meeting as much as one hour late. Lots of Haitians live without watches. Transportation is unreliable. Things can take a lot of time. And punctuality, while respected, isn’t generally viewed as all that important. I’ve never seen a Haitian here start to panic because they’re going to be late.

But when I got to the 10:00 General Assembly at 9:30 on Saturday morning, everyone was already there and busy. The singing and dancing and talking were in full swing.

The General Assembly is the annual meeting of Fonkoze members from all over Haiti. Fonkoze’s core activity is what is called “solidarity group” credit. A Solidarity Group is five close friends who organize themselves to take out their loans as a group. Responsibility for repayment is shared. They agree in advance that if one of them has trouble meeting a repayment deadline, the others will come to her aid. Solidarity Groups are then organized into Credit Centers of six-eight groups. These Centers are designed to be permanent associations of women committed to improving their lives. Through these centers, Fonkoze organizes loan disbursements and repayments and educational services.

For the General Assembly, members from all of Fonkoze’s branches choose representatives that they send to Pòtoprens. That they send their representatives is true quite literally. Fonkoze does not pay the expensive transportation costs, nor does it cover lodging. The women themselves and the others whom they represent are left to make their own arrangements. For women who joined Fonkoze because they are on the edge of poverty but are ready to fight to improve their situations, these expenses are considerable. The round trip from Wanament, for example, might be as much as $50. And this is in a country in which much of the population lives on less than $1 a day.

But 175 women came to the meeting, representing all 28 of Fonkoze’s branches. They heard reports from Fonkoze staff and a presentation from an expert in decentralization. Interspersed through these presentations were songs and a short play about the importance of Fonkoze services. The play was created and performed by the group of women from Wanament. I later learned that they had been asked to perform something only that same morning. They created the play and learned the lines within a couple of hours.

The most important phase of the meeting began when the women were invited to step forward and ask questions or offer comments about Fonkoze. One way of describing what happened at that moment would be to say that chaos broke out. Women stood up from all through the auditorium and rushed forward to take the microphone. Multiple women tried to speak at once. When Fonkoze staff tried to suggest that questions be written out, a large portion of the women refused. They had not traveled to Pòtoprens in order to leave someone a note. They wanted their voices to be heard. Fonkoze’s staff had to abandon its carefully-planned agenda and go with the flow.

There is, however, a deeper and, therefore, truer way to interpret the apparent chaos. Fonkoze’s core objective is to help poor Haitian women take greater control of their lives. One way it does so is to offer well-structured credit programs. Women cannot have control of their lives unless they have their own sources of income. But credit is not enough. Another way Fonkoze helps women take increased control of their lives is by offering educational programs, like Basic Literacy. Fonkoze feels that it should be helping women develop the tools they need to manage their affairs well.

When Fonkoze’s members took control of the General Assembly, when they forced the organization to give up its plans and respond to their need for space and time to speak up, they were showing a willingness to assert themselves that Fonkoze’s leadership could only welcome. The chaos was a clear sign of progress Fonkoze has made.

The challenge that remains for Fonkoze will be to find new ways to respond to its members’ assertiveness. Already there are plans to create a newsletter in which Fonkoze staff will respond to questions and comments that members send. The dialogue will have to be ongoing, but Saturday’s meeting was a very promising point from which to depart.

Here are some photos of the meeting: PhotosoftheGeneralAssembly.

Being Sick and Getting Better

It’s taken a couple of weeks, but I’m myself again. For what that’s worth. I could feel it especially as I walked uphill to get home last night with a rather full backpack. The hike felt easy, though it was hot. There were none of the struggles or the perceived need to pace myself that I had been feeling of late. This morning I tore down the mountain at the pace that some neighbors tease me about.

I’ve been very lucky about my health in Haiti. I’m not very careful about what I eat or drink, and I spend lots of time in the sometimes-chaotic traffic that fills Port au Prince streets and getting whacked around on the none-too-smooth roads across the haiitan countryside. But, on the whole, my health has been excellent. I’m rarely under the weather, even for a day. My most serious injuries have been cuts on the top of my head – from foolishly jumping onto a moving tap-tap – and on my shin – I fell backwards off a rock I was climbing. Both healed promptly without further consequences. As I say, I’ve been lucky.

So when fever hit a couple of weeks ago, I felt not only miserable, but a little dumbfounded. I was in Mibale, at the tail end of a long, varied, and busy trip through the Central Plateau. And by midway through a Wednesday morning, I could think of nothing but lying in bed. I had a high fever, with all the associated aches in all parts of my body, and a deep cough to boot.

It had been a hard few days. Part of the trip had involved long rides on the back of a motorcycle along roads made extra dusty by a prolonged draught. I can tend to be a little asthmatic here in Haiti, but normally an inhaler is perfectly adequate as treatment. But the dust on the Central Plateau affected me badly. The inhaler stopped helping. There’s a very effective, Haitian-made pill to treat asthma, and I started taking one each day. It has insomnia as a side-effect, though, so I started to lose a lot of sleep. Tuesday night I couldn’t get any sleep at all. By midnight, I gave into the wakefulness. I decided I could make use of it to finish a large piece of editorial work I had hanging over me. Mibale is quite different from most of Haiti in at least one respect: It has electricity all the time, 24/7. So I finished the work around 7:30, and e-mailed it off by 8:00 or so. Then I went straight back to bed. I felt miserable.

I was in Mibale for a couple of reasons. It had been a base from which I could visit Fonkoze’s newest branch in Beladè, a small city near the Dominican border. There I was scheduled to meet with representatives of the Dominican office of an important funder of Fonkoze’s literacy projects, Plan International. Plan’s team wanted to bring a representative from Fonkoze to their new office in Elias Piña, the Dominican city across from Beladè, to talk with Dominican microfinance institutions. Plan likes Fonkoze’s approach, and was wondering whether we could help them push their potential Dominican partners closer to it.

In Mibale itself, I was scheduled to visit a workshop for Fonkoze members who would be leading meetings of other women from their credit centers as they studied Fonkoze’s very popular, four-month unit on Sexual and Reproductive Health. The week-long workshop was being led by Freda Catheus, Fonkoze’s main trainer of discussion leaders for the unit. She was also working with another woman who is apprenticing with her as a trainer of discussion leaders, so investing a day of so in observing their work seemed like a great idea.

But when I returned to my hotel room after sending off my e-mail, a hotel room in the very same center that was hosting the workshop, there was no question of observing anything. Everything ached, I couldn’t think of eating, and I felt as though I was burning up. Mystal, the Fonkoze staff member who had made the trip to Beladè with me, immediately got to work. He went out and bought several bottles of very cold drinking water, and delivered it from downtown Mibale to the room we were sharing. When Emile, the Fonkoze education coordinator who had organized the workshop, arrived, he took action as well. By then, Mystal had been forced to leave. He had a day’s work to do in the branch in nearby Boukan Kare. Emile got the workshop started, and then went back downtown in search of pills.

He came back with ibuprofen in a wide range of strengths and with chloroquin. The latter is the standard treatment in Haiti for malaria, which is often the assumed cause of a high fever. I think that, at that point, one could have done whatever one wanted with me.

But the one thing I couldn’t do was eat, and the one thing I wanted was to get back to Kaglo. A Fonkoze truck was scheduled to return to Pòtoprens from Beladè via Mibale, and I prepared myself to make the trip with them. Meanwhile Emile, Freda, and Malya, who was her assistant for the workshop, took turns sitting with me as we waited. The workshop continued on the other side of a thin concrete wall from me. It seemed to go well.

Late in the day, it became clear that my hoped-for ride from Fonkoze would not materialize. The truck had gone to Beladè to bring a team that was helping with the opening of the new branch, and they had a lot of work to do. They didn’t get back to Mibale until after dark, but by late afternoon it was clear that they wouldn’t be back in time to return to Pòtoprens. The next day, Thursday, the team took the truck back to Beladè. They had more work to do. They said they would pick me up on their way back to Pòtoprens. They promised they would be going that day.

That evening, Emile and Mystal talked seriously about taking me to the hospital. If they had had a car available, I might have let them do it, but I couldn’t imagine mounting the back of Emile’s motorcycle. The hospital they had in mind was in Laskawobas, and though the road from Mibale to Laskawobas is excellent, the ride seemed like it would be much too much. Freda sent off to buy key limes. Lime juice was the only thing that appealed to me. In fact, I craved it terribly.

When I got up the next morning, I felt a little better, and when I thought of waiting most of the day to return to Pòtoprens with Fonkoze, I blanched. I decided instead to pack my things and walk downtown to take a midmorning bus. I took a seat on the bus, and waited as it started to fill up. A bus won’t normally leave until it is full, and filling up a big bus can take time. By the time this bus was ready to go, I couldn’t not imagine what could have convinced me that I’d be able to make the rough three-hour trip alone, in the large bus, with its blaring music. Still worse, on arrival in Pòtoprens, I’d have to walk through the crowded market in Kwadeboukèt to get a tap-tap to Delma, from which I could get another to Petyonvil. It would be a lot of moving around with a backpack that held ten days worth of clothes, books and a laptop, and I was starting to feel weak and feverish again. I got down of the bus, and went back to bed.

Mid-afternoon, the truck returned from Beladè, and we headed back to Pòtoprens. When we got to the city, we dropped off the other Fonkoze staff members at their homes, and then Rodrigue, the driver, took me to my godson’s house off of Delma 75. There we picked up my godson’s Uncle Job, a fourth-year med student, and Rodrigue took us both all the way up to Kaglo.

Job came up with all his medical equipment. He took my temperature, listened to my heart and lungs, poked and probed, looked in my eyes and ears. He even took a bit of blood, and tested it for something. He voiced a couple of suspicions, but immediately added that, if I was up to it, he would take me to a lab in Petyonvil the next morning for tests. By then, I was already feeling much better, just a little weak. That weakness, both physical and mental, lasted over a week.

The lab tests didn’t show much: no malaria, no parasites. Lots of white blood cells, suggesting they were fighting some kind of invasive presence, and low protein, suggesting bad eating habits. Job suggested paying more attention to making sure I eat decently and taking vitamins. He also said I should get more rest. Meanwhile, my neighbor Madanm Boby, who knows a lot about medicinal teas, starting producing them in quantity for me every day. Between rest, the teas, and forcing myself to eat even when I had no appetite, things eventually go back to normal.

It was a hard couple of days. Being sick is never fun, but it’s probably a little harder when you’re out of your native element. At the same time, I was struck by the extent to which the things that make it easier to be sick at home were true for me here in Haiti. I have my own doctor, Job, and a striking array of colleagues and friends who immediately huddled around me when they heard that I was unwell. Madanm Boby turned into a tea factory, and the only thing that get Madanm Anténor out of the action was that she was off visiting her sister in the Dominican Republic. When she learned I had been sick behind her back, she was horrified. My colleagues at Fonkoze could not have huddled around me more closely than they did.

Having been down for a couple of days only served to reaffirm the very great degree to which I am now at home in Haiti.